Baltit Fort, about 700 years old, stands above Karimabad below the Ultar glacier. It was home to the Mirs of Hunza and is now a museum. Altit Fort, ten minutes away, is older still and sits on a cliff above the river.
The bazaar below the forts sells gemstones, woollen caps, dried apricots and walnut cake. Ganish has carved wooden mosques and old watchtowers, and Eagle’s Nest in Duikar, at about 2,900 m, gives the best sunset in Hunza.